italian tasting
Nov. 10, 2007
On Saturday, Jennifer hosted a wonderful casual party with Italian food and wines as the theme. We went
through 9 diverse wines from almost every corner of Italy, and all 9 were very high quality, and definitely
very Italian! An unscientific poll revealed that the Prosecco was the top white, and the Tomaresca "Bocca
di Lupo" from Puglia was the winner for the reds. From the lightest white, to the richest red, and all the
wines in between, they all had gobbs of flavor, lots of character, and went very well with the many italian
dishes prepared. Below are my personal notes on the wine. If anyone has any questions, feel free to
e-mail me. Thanks to Jennifer, and to all who came. Salute!
through 9 diverse wines from almost every corner of Italy, and all 9 were very high quality, and definitely
very Italian! An unscientific poll revealed that the Prosecco was the top white, and the Tomaresca "Bocca
di Lupo" from Puglia was the winner for the reds. From the lightest white, to the richest red, and all the
wines in between, they all had gobbs of flavor, lots of character, and went very well with the many italian
dishes prepared. Below are my personal notes on the wine. If anyone has any questions, feel free to
e-mail me. Thanks to Jennifer, and to all who came. Salute!
1. Drusian, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Veneto
Made by the "tank" method, this bubbly from the grape of the same name had a lot of class and it
showed. Hands down the favorite of the night, this light sparkler revealed nice pear and apple notes, a
light minerality, and just a sublte touch of sweetness. A very "clean" wine, it makes for a great aperitif
before a meal. $14. My score: 88
2. Cantina di Gallura, Vermentino di Gallura, “Canayli”, Sardinia 2005
This wine makes a great substitute for some rather bland pinot grigio out there in the marketplace. To
me this had wonderful aromas of tropical fruit and hints of lemon candy. It exploded in the mouth with
lots of minerals like rocks, chalk, and earth with a dose of lemon cake heaped on top. I really liked the
tropical notes and minerality. A very distinctive wine, and refreshing too! $18. My score: 89; 2 out of 3
Glasses from Gambero Rosso ("due bicchieri")
3. Pra, Soave Classico, “Monte Grande”, Veneto 2006
The nose really jumped out at people with this one. Rich pear and apple, but with some straw notes
thrown in for good measure. The texture was supple, rich, and showed ripe fruit flavors. The wine had
an intriguing very light bitterness/grassiness in the finish which to me screams "Italian". This was a
classy wine. Not your grandfather's Soave. 90% Garganega, 10% Trebiano. $28. My score: 89-90;
"tre bicchieri" from Gambero Rosso.
4. Valle dell’Acate, Nero d’Avola, “Il Moro”, Sicily 2004
Although this is an "IGT" or regional wine, many producers try to produce exceptional quality that falls
outside of the "official" regulations. Think super-tuscans that don't fit into the mold of a "Chianti".
Officially, this is just "Red Sicilian Wine". But in my opinion it is a shining example of a 100% Nero
d'Avola wine, with great blackberry, coffee grounds, and licorice/anise aromas. It's wild and rustic, but
very appealing, and classically Italian! This is not a heavy wine, but is full of dark flavors. It was made
without ever touching a wood barrel, and would go great with dried meats and salamis. $24. My score:
90.
5. Rocca di Montegrossi, Chianti Classico, Vigneto San Marcellino, Tuscany 2003
We skipped over the Tomaresca here and saved that for later because it is such a big wine. Now we
are tasting a Chianti Classico single vineyard wine made from 100% sangiovese in the best part, or the
"heart" of the over-extended Chianti zone. This was an intense, and for some, a brutal Chianti! I called
it Chianti on steriods. It's not a huge wine, it's just that the typical flavors were amplified. That means
lots of red cherry fruit, and a salty or minerally character with plenty of tart acidity and dry tannins. This
was off-putting for some. I really enjoyed it, but as with any wine, maybe I wouldn't feel the same way
with an entire bottle over dinner, which is really the only way to get to know a wine. Having lots of
structure and balance, this wine could probably age a good 10 years no problem. By the way, I could
not detect much of a trace of the 18 months this wine spent in barrels! $35. My score: 90-91; Robert
Parker: 91; "due bicchieri" Gambero Rosso.
6. Sestadisopra, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 2002
Two wines are widely considered the best in Italy: Barolo/Barbaresco and Brunello. One vintage is
widely considered the worst in quite a while: 2002. But this extremely small producer (345 cases of this
stuff) was very careful in the vineyards, and has excellent sites for his grapes. Both of those factors,
along with a lighter vintage, combined to produce a very good Brunello, (some say one of the best of the
vintage) that's ready to drink now. Brunellos are 100% sangiovese, and this one saw 2 years in oak.
Most Brunellos need at least 10 years to hit their prime, but this one was great. The color was ruby with
faint orange hues, and had beautiful aromas of blueberry, old cherry, and sweet leather. There was a
hint of sandalwood, and delicate spices to make this a very complex wine. The oak was miraculously
well-integrated into the juice. It was medium bodied, and silky in the mouth, but still pretty intense. The
lighter tannins were a result of this vintage. I loved this distinctively Italian wine that was very well-
balanced, had a long finish, and is drinking well right now (and probably for another 5-8 years). One
note I read stated it was "intriguing, provacative, and tempting". Despite the hyperbole, this seemed to
hit a note with me. Everyone really enjoyed this...until the Pelissero was poured. $43. My score: 92
7. Peliserro, Barbaresco, Piemonte 1996
With 11 years under its belt, this Barbaresco was showing off its colors of faded ruby with an orange rim
color--typical of the nebbiolo grape. I got whiffs of light tar, dark floral notes, cherry, and the feeling of
being in a vegetable garden. There must have been a slight nuance of asparagus or something in
there! This was actually similar in character to the Brunello, but with a bit more concentration of flavor in
the mouth, and a "mysterious" or "exotic" aspect. Don't ask me to explain, it's just what I wrote down. I
also wrote "quitely powerful" which makes more sense to me. This is a good wine for dark sauces, osso
buco, and old, hard cheeses. Many really liked this too...until the Tomaresca. $45. My score: 92.
8. Tomaresca, “Bocca di Lupo”, Castel del Monte, Puglia 2001
The "mouth of the wolf" had a near opaque black-purple color, tipping you off to how this was going to
taste. The 90% aglianico/10% cabernet sauvignon wine revealed intense cassis-plum-cherry notes
mixed in with doses of tobacco, earth, and oak. To me it had a very cabernet character (strange for
being only 10% of the wine). The mouth was super supple, dark, brooding, and reminded me of a "dirt
bomb" with cherries and blackberries heaped on top. It was easily the biggest wine of the night, had
tons of tannins, was aging nicely for a 6 year-old. More of a new world style, this wine had power and
was not ashamed to use it. Antinori owns this estate. Would be great with a big steak with a rich sauce
and mushrooms. I believe this was the favorite of the night for almost everyone. $32. My score: 90;
Wine Spectator: 90
9. Sartori, Amarone di Valpolicella, Veneto 2001
Amorone is made from dried grapes, so the pressing produces very concentrated juice, mainly from the
corvina grape near Verona. This was also really intense, but was surprisingly not as heavy as the
Tomaresca, and did not age as much in small barrels. However, it did age 3 years in used, very large
casks, imparting not much in the way of flavor, but causing the wine to reduce a bit and to add
character, rather than vanilla-oak notes. I picked up beautiful dried fruits, cherries, and a nutty,
almondy character. With just a touch of natural sweetness, it was reminiscent of port, but without the
high alcohol. I distinctly remember thinking of fruit-cake drinking this wine! My notes also say "nutty with
dates and dried fruit" and "teeth-staining". Yet this was still fresh, and not gooey or heavy in the mouth.
A great wine to sip on a cold winter night in front of the fire. Or with sharp cheeses or a really strong
BBQ dish! This seemed to be a crowd pleaser, but with the nod going to the Tomaresca. $35. My
score: 92.
Made by the "tank" method, this bubbly from the grape of the same name had a lot of class and it
showed. Hands down the favorite of the night, this light sparkler revealed nice pear and apple notes, a
light minerality, and just a sublte touch of sweetness. A very "clean" wine, it makes for a great aperitif
before a meal. $14. My score: 88
2. Cantina di Gallura, Vermentino di Gallura, “Canayli”, Sardinia 2005
This wine makes a great substitute for some rather bland pinot grigio out there in the marketplace. To
me this had wonderful aromas of tropical fruit and hints of lemon candy. It exploded in the mouth with
lots of minerals like rocks, chalk, and earth with a dose of lemon cake heaped on top. I really liked the
tropical notes and minerality. A very distinctive wine, and refreshing too! $18. My score: 89; 2 out of 3
Glasses from Gambero Rosso ("due bicchieri")
3. Pra, Soave Classico, “Monte Grande”, Veneto 2006
The nose really jumped out at people with this one. Rich pear and apple, but with some straw notes
thrown in for good measure. The texture was supple, rich, and showed ripe fruit flavors. The wine had
an intriguing very light bitterness/grassiness in the finish which to me screams "Italian". This was a
classy wine. Not your grandfather's Soave. 90% Garganega, 10% Trebiano. $28. My score: 89-90;
"tre bicchieri" from Gambero Rosso.
4. Valle dell’Acate, Nero d’Avola, “Il Moro”, Sicily 2004
Although this is an "IGT" or regional wine, many producers try to produce exceptional quality that falls
outside of the "official" regulations. Think super-tuscans that don't fit into the mold of a "Chianti".
Officially, this is just "Red Sicilian Wine". But in my opinion it is a shining example of a 100% Nero
d'Avola wine, with great blackberry, coffee grounds, and licorice/anise aromas. It's wild and rustic, but
very appealing, and classically Italian! This is not a heavy wine, but is full of dark flavors. It was made
without ever touching a wood barrel, and would go great with dried meats and salamis. $24. My score:
90.
5. Rocca di Montegrossi, Chianti Classico, Vigneto San Marcellino, Tuscany 2003
We skipped over the Tomaresca here and saved that for later because it is such a big wine. Now we
are tasting a Chianti Classico single vineyard wine made from 100% sangiovese in the best part, or the
"heart" of the over-extended Chianti zone. This was an intense, and for some, a brutal Chianti! I called
it Chianti on steriods. It's not a huge wine, it's just that the typical flavors were amplified. That means
lots of red cherry fruit, and a salty or minerally character with plenty of tart acidity and dry tannins. This
was off-putting for some. I really enjoyed it, but as with any wine, maybe I wouldn't feel the same way
with an entire bottle over dinner, which is really the only way to get to know a wine. Having lots of
structure and balance, this wine could probably age a good 10 years no problem. By the way, I could
not detect much of a trace of the 18 months this wine spent in barrels! $35. My score: 90-91; Robert
Parker: 91; "due bicchieri" Gambero Rosso.
6. Sestadisopra, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany 2002
Two wines are widely considered the best in Italy: Barolo/Barbaresco and Brunello. One vintage is
widely considered the worst in quite a while: 2002. But this extremely small producer (345 cases of this
stuff) was very careful in the vineyards, and has excellent sites for his grapes. Both of those factors,
along with a lighter vintage, combined to produce a very good Brunello, (some say one of the best of the
vintage) that's ready to drink now. Brunellos are 100% sangiovese, and this one saw 2 years in oak.
Most Brunellos need at least 10 years to hit their prime, but this one was great. The color was ruby with
faint orange hues, and had beautiful aromas of blueberry, old cherry, and sweet leather. There was a
hint of sandalwood, and delicate spices to make this a very complex wine. The oak was miraculously
well-integrated into the juice. It was medium bodied, and silky in the mouth, but still pretty intense. The
lighter tannins were a result of this vintage. I loved this distinctively Italian wine that was very well-
balanced, had a long finish, and is drinking well right now (and probably for another 5-8 years). One
note I read stated it was "intriguing, provacative, and tempting". Despite the hyperbole, this seemed to
hit a note with me. Everyone really enjoyed this...until the Pelissero was poured. $43. My score: 92
7. Peliserro, Barbaresco, Piemonte 1996
With 11 years under its belt, this Barbaresco was showing off its colors of faded ruby with an orange rim
color--typical of the nebbiolo grape. I got whiffs of light tar, dark floral notes, cherry, and the feeling of
being in a vegetable garden. There must have been a slight nuance of asparagus or something in
there! This was actually similar in character to the Brunello, but with a bit more concentration of flavor in
the mouth, and a "mysterious" or "exotic" aspect. Don't ask me to explain, it's just what I wrote down. I
also wrote "quitely powerful" which makes more sense to me. This is a good wine for dark sauces, osso
buco, and old, hard cheeses. Many really liked this too...until the Tomaresca. $45. My score: 92.
8. Tomaresca, “Bocca di Lupo”, Castel del Monte, Puglia 2001
The "mouth of the wolf" had a near opaque black-purple color, tipping you off to how this was going to
taste. The 90% aglianico/10% cabernet sauvignon wine revealed intense cassis-plum-cherry notes
mixed in with doses of tobacco, earth, and oak. To me it had a very cabernet character (strange for
being only 10% of the wine). The mouth was super supple, dark, brooding, and reminded me of a "dirt
bomb" with cherries and blackberries heaped on top. It was easily the biggest wine of the night, had
tons of tannins, was aging nicely for a 6 year-old. More of a new world style, this wine had power and
was not ashamed to use it. Antinori owns this estate. Would be great with a big steak with a rich sauce
and mushrooms. I believe this was the favorite of the night for almost everyone. $32. My score: 90;
Wine Spectator: 90
9. Sartori, Amarone di Valpolicella, Veneto 2001
Amorone is made from dried grapes, so the pressing produces very concentrated juice, mainly from the
corvina grape near Verona. This was also really intense, but was surprisingly not as heavy as the
Tomaresca, and did not age as much in small barrels. However, it did age 3 years in used, very large
casks, imparting not much in the way of flavor, but causing the wine to reduce a bit and to add
character, rather than vanilla-oak notes. I picked up beautiful dried fruits, cherries, and a nutty,
almondy character. With just a touch of natural sweetness, it was reminiscent of port, but without the
high alcohol. I distinctly remember thinking of fruit-cake drinking this wine! My notes also say "nutty with
dates and dried fruit" and "teeth-staining". Yet this was still fresh, and not gooey or heavy in the mouth.
A great wine to sip on a cold winter night in front of the fire. Or with sharp cheeses or a really strong
BBQ dish! This seemed to be a crowd pleaser, but with the nod going to the Tomaresca. $35. My
score: 92.