champagne tasting
Dec. 9, 2007
1. Ariston-Brut, “Carte Blanche”, Brouillet, Champagne 60%C/40%PN
Our first Champagne was simply lovely. I loved the brioche notes, toast, and complex mineral character mixed with
white fruits. It had great balance, and to me seemed just slightly reminiscent of a Chardonnay from Burgundy. The
lemony citrus notes in the finish kept it lively, and gave it just a sensation of sweet candied fruit. Very small
producer from the Northern part of Champagne.
My score: 90. $28.
2. De Sousa (Zoemie)-Brut, “Cuvee Mervielle”, Avize, Champagne 33%C/66%PN&PM
This started off with a rich nose of soft pear and butter, and continued with a medium full body with lots of intensity
in the mouth. I sensed flavors of angel food, chalky minerals, nice foamy bubbles, and a long citrus finish. I liked
this very much. My score: 91. Wine Spectator: 9. $36.
3. Charles Heidsieck-Brut Reserve, Reims, Champagne 25%C/75% PN-PM
Although the red grapes blend is close to the De Sousa, this Brut had more structure and fuller pinot noir character
to me. Although this had all the "correct" stuff, the nose was sort of weak to me (or at least dissipated rather
quickly), and it just didn't excite me much. Often times good wines don't show well next to more "exciting" neighbors
(which is why I don't go clubbing). Solid, but lacks a bit of character. Highly rated by Wine Spectator. My score:
89. WS: 92. $34.
4. Philippe Gonet-Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Champagne 100%C
OK, we went through three classic non-vintage Brut Champagnes--now on to more varied styles. In this wine, right
away you sense the stronger aromas--vinous ("winey") notes, light yeast and sourdough, hazelnuts, and elegant
floral aspects. Coming from one of the most famous villages for Chardonnay, this is a wonderful, true to its name
Blanc de Blancs (from white grapes only). It had a bit higher acidity, typical of Chardonnay, very persistent
bubbles, and was quite dry and elegant in the mouth. To me this possessed lots of class and was my favorite.
My score: 92. $40.
5. Schramsberg, Brut, Blanc de Noirs, North Coast, CA 2004 85%PN/15%C
Although this isn't from 100% "noir" grapes, in California you are allowed a certain percentage of other non-
conforming varietals in the wine. As at our tasting, these "non-conformists" had a strong but positive influence. I
didn't perceive any overt signs of the Pinot, but the combination was nonetheless very appealing with hints of
caramel, pie crust, and tropical fruits. Missing in the Californian wine was the yeasty/minerally character often
associated with Champagne. This was replaced somewhat by the fruit, which is expected in our sun-shiny, grape-
ripening state. The wine was none the worse for it, and conformists and non-conformists alike really enjoyed this
well-made sparkler. My score: 89. $34.
6. LeClerc Briant, Cuvee Rubis, Rose, Epernay, Champagne, 2002 100%PN
As you might have noticed, this wine (as well as the previous one) are vintage-dated. However, they are not "true"
vintage character sparkling wines/Champagnes. In California, because almost every year is a "vintage" year, many
bottlings issue an "ordinary" vintage sparkler every time. Normally a vintage Champagne means a special, very
select bottling from an outstanding year, with at least 6-7 years of age before release. The Cuvee Rubis from
Leclerc-Briant can be considered an anomoly in that it is one of the darkest "roses" in Champagne. It really
smelled and tasted like a light red Burgundy or even Beaujolais! It had cherry notes, cranberry, and as someone
described "Grape Fanta soda". It was also earthy in the mouth, with a short finish. What fun to discover such a
completely different style of Champagne! I had a chunk of the Beaufort with this and it was perfect. Now I'm
convinced there is a Champagne for every occasion. My score: 88. $37.
7. Laurent-Perrier-Demi-Sec, Tours sur Marne, Champagne 45%C/40%PN/15%PM
I noted it was a bit difficult to discern the subtle colors of the Champagnes outdoors (excepting the above!), but this
one was noticeably darker yellow-gold. I really enjoyed the complex flavors of macadamia nuts, lychee, and toast.
It was richer and fuller than the other Bruts, but still seemed to have quite a low doseage for a demi-sec. It was not
too sweet, but had just enough to complement nicely the beautiful cupcakes served at the end! A rule of thumb for
serving a dessert Champagne (or any dessert wine for that matter) is that the dessert should never be sweeter
than the wine. So unless you ate just the frosting off the cupcakes, the two complemented each other quite well!
My score: 89+. $35.
Our first Champagne was simply lovely. I loved the brioche notes, toast, and complex mineral character mixed with
white fruits. It had great balance, and to me seemed just slightly reminiscent of a Chardonnay from Burgundy. The
lemony citrus notes in the finish kept it lively, and gave it just a sensation of sweet candied fruit. Very small
producer from the Northern part of Champagne.
My score: 90. $28.
2. De Sousa (Zoemie)-Brut, “Cuvee Mervielle”, Avize, Champagne 33%C/66%PN&PM
This started off with a rich nose of soft pear and butter, and continued with a medium full body with lots of intensity
in the mouth. I sensed flavors of angel food, chalky minerals, nice foamy bubbles, and a long citrus finish. I liked
this very much. My score: 91. Wine Spectator: 9. $36.
3. Charles Heidsieck-Brut Reserve, Reims, Champagne 25%C/75% PN-PM
Although the red grapes blend is close to the De Sousa, this Brut had more structure and fuller pinot noir character
to me. Although this had all the "correct" stuff, the nose was sort of weak to me (or at least dissipated rather
quickly), and it just didn't excite me much. Often times good wines don't show well next to more "exciting" neighbors
(which is why I don't go clubbing). Solid, but lacks a bit of character. Highly rated by Wine Spectator. My score:
89. WS: 92. $34.
4. Philippe Gonet-Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Champagne 100%C
OK, we went through three classic non-vintage Brut Champagnes--now on to more varied styles. In this wine, right
away you sense the stronger aromas--vinous ("winey") notes, light yeast and sourdough, hazelnuts, and elegant
floral aspects. Coming from one of the most famous villages for Chardonnay, this is a wonderful, true to its name
Blanc de Blancs (from white grapes only). It had a bit higher acidity, typical of Chardonnay, very persistent
bubbles, and was quite dry and elegant in the mouth. To me this possessed lots of class and was my favorite.
My score: 92. $40.
5. Schramsberg, Brut, Blanc de Noirs, North Coast, CA 2004 85%PN/15%C
Although this isn't from 100% "noir" grapes, in California you are allowed a certain percentage of other non-
conforming varietals in the wine. As at our tasting, these "non-conformists" had a strong but positive influence. I
didn't perceive any overt signs of the Pinot, but the combination was nonetheless very appealing with hints of
caramel, pie crust, and tropical fruits. Missing in the Californian wine was the yeasty/minerally character often
associated with Champagne. This was replaced somewhat by the fruit, which is expected in our sun-shiny, grape-
ripening state. The wine was none the worse for it, and conformists and non-conformists alike really enjoyed this
well-made sparkler. My score: 89. $34.
6. LeClerc Briant, Cuvee Rubis, Rose, Epernay, Champagne, 2002 100%PN
As you might have noticed, this wine (as well as the previous one) are vintage-dated. However, they are not "true"
vintage character sparkling wines/Champagnes. In California, because almost every year is a "vintage" year, many
bottlings issue an "ordinary" vintage sparkler every time. Normally a vintage Champagne means a special, very
select bottling from an outstanding year, with at least 6-7 years of age before release. The Cuvee Rubis from
Leclerc-Briant can be considered an anomoly in that it is one of the darkest "roses" in Champagne. It really
smelled and tasted like a light red Burgundy or even Beaujolais! It had cherry notes, cranberry, and as someone
described "Grape Fanta soda". It was also earthy in the mouth, with a short finish. What fun to discover such a
completely different style of Champagne! I had a chunk of the Beaufort with this and it was perfect. Now I'm
convinced there is a Champagne for every occasion. My score: 88. $37.
7. Laurent-Perrier-Demi-Sec, Tours sur Marne, Champagne 45%C/40%PN/15%PM
I noted it was a bit difficult to discern the subtle colors of the Champagnes outdoors (excepting the above!), but this
one was noticeably darker yellow-gold. I really enjoyed the complex flavors of macadamia nuts, lychee, and toast.
It was richer and fuller than the other Bruts, but still seemed to have quite a low doseage for a demi-sec. It was not
too sweet, but had just enough to complement nicely the beautiful cupcakes served at the end! A rule of thumb for
serving a dessert Champagne (or any dessert wine for that matter) is that the dessert should never be sweeter
than the wine. So unless you ate just the frosting off the cupcakes, the two complemented each other quite well!
My score: 89+. $35.
There's no better way to spend a crisp sunny December day than at a garden party tasting Champagne with
a lot of very fun and interesting people. That's what we did for our Guest of Honor, Juliette, on her birthday!
Not only was the cheese splendid, and the cupcakes scrumptious, but we learned a thing or two as well (I
hope!). Fun fact #1: The three Champagne grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier) thrive in
the northerly cool climate and chalky soils of this region. There, that wasn't so bad, was it?
Anyway, next time you're sipping a bubbly, or just shopping for one, try to consider the blend of the above
grapes, whether they are they premier cru or grand cru quality, the vintage, how long on the lees, and
doseage or sweetness level (i.e., Brut, Demi-sec, etc.). Or just contemplate the mystery of how the bubbles
got there in the first place. Champagne...it's not just for weddings anymore. (Next time you go out for sushi,
please order a bottle!). For the Champagne outline, click here.
a lot of very fun and interesting people. That's what we did for our Guest of Honor, Juliette, on her birthday!
Not only was the cheese splendid, and the cupcakes scrumptious, but we learned a thing or two as well (I
hope!). Fun fact #1: The three Champagne grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier) thrive in
the northerly cool climate and chalky soils of this region. There, that wasn't so bad, was it?
Anyway, next time you're sipping a bubbly, or just shopping for one, try to consider the blend of the above
grapes, whether they are they premier cru or grand cru quality, the vintage, how long on the lees, and
doseage or sweetness level (i.e., Brut, Demi-sec, etc.). Or just contemplate the mystery of how the bubbles
got there in the first place. Champagne...it's not just for weddings anymore. (Next time you go out for sushi,
please order a bottle!). For the Champagne outline, click here.